Crop Rotation Planner

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Created by: Ethan Brooks

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Plan multi-year crop rotations for your homestead garden. Select your crop families to generate optimized rotation schedules with companion planting tips and cover crop recommendations.

Crop Rotation Planner

Homesteading

Plan multi-year crop rotations to maintain soil health, prevent disease, and maximize yields on your homestead.

Garden Setup

beds

Select Crop Families

Choose the crop families you want to grow. Select at least 2 for rotation planning.

Brassicas (Cabbage Family)

Broccoli, Cabbage, Cauliflower, Kale...

heavy feeder

Legumes (Bean Family)

Beans, Peas, Lentils, Peanuts...

nitrogen fixer

Nightshades (Tomato Family)

Tomatoes, Peppers, Eggplant, Potatoes...

heavy feeder

Cucurbits (Squash Family)

Squash, Zucchini, Cucumbers, Melons...

heavy feeder

Alliums (Onion Family)

Onions, Garlic, Leeks, Shallots...

light feeder

Root Vegetables

Carrots, Beets, Parsnips, Rutabaga...

light feeder

Leafy Greens

Lettuce, Spinach, Swiss Chard, Arugula...

moderate feeder

Corn & Grains

Corn, Wheat, Oats, Rye...

heavy feeder

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What is a Homesteading Crop Rotation Planner?

A homesteading crop rotation planner helps you design a multi-year planting schedule that prevents disease buildup, manages soil fertility naturally, and maximizes your garden's productivity. Successful homesteading depends on maintaining healthy, productive soil year after year.

Crop rotation is the practice of planting different crop families in the same bed across multiple years. This ancient agricultural technique remains one of the most effective ways to maintain soil health without heavy reliance on external inputs.

The Science Behind Crop Rotation

  • Disease Prevention: Many plant diseases persist in soil for 2-4 years. Rotating crops breaks this cycle.
  • Pest Disruption: Soil-dwelling pests that target specific families starve when their host crops move.
  • Nutrient Cycling: Different crops use different nutrients at different soil depths.
  • Natural Fertility: Nitrogen-fixing legumes restore what heavy feeders deplete.

Common Rotation Patterns

The classic four-year rotation follows: Legumes → Brassicas → Nightshades → Roots. Legumes fix nitrogen, which brassicas (heavy feeders) use. Nightshades follow before root crops, which are light feeders that clean up remaining nutrients. Cover crops between seasons add organic matter and prevent erosion.

Tips for Success

  • Keep a garden journal to track what was planted where each year
  • Include at least one legume season in every rotation cycle
  • Use cover crops during fallow periods or over winter
  • Consider companion planting within each bed for pest control
  • Be flexible — adjust plans based on what works in your specific conditions

Frequently Asked Questions

Why is crop rotation important for homesteaders?

Crop rotation prevents soil depletion, breaks pest and disease cycles, and naturally manages soil fertility. Different plant families have different nutrient needs - rotating crops ensures no single nutrient gets depleted while allowing soil biology to recover between plantings of the same family.

How many years should my crop rotation be?

A 4-year rotation is ideal for most gardens, giving soil adequate recovery time between same-family plantings. For crops prone to persistent soil diseases (like brassicas with clubroot or nightshades with blight), a longer 5-6 year rotation provides better protection.

What are nitrogen-fixing crops and why do they matter?

Nitrogen-fixing crops (legumes like beans, peas, and clover) host bacteria in their roots that convert atmospheric nitrogen into plant-available forms. Planting legumes before heavy feeders like corn or brassicas naturally fertilizes the soil, reducing the need for external inputs.

Should I use cover crops between rotations?

Yes! Cover crops prevent erosion, suppress weeds, add organic matter, and some fix nitrogen. Winter cover crops like rye or crimson clover protect soil during the off-season and can be tilled under as green manure before spring planting.

What's the difference between heavy feeders and light feeders?

Heavy feeders (tomatoes, corn, brassicas) deplete soil nutrients rapidly and need rich, amended soil. Light feeders (carrots, onions, herbs) require fewer nutrients and actually help balance the soil. Following heavy feeders with legumes (nitrogen fixers) then light feeders creates an efficient nutrient cycle.

Sources and References

  1. USDA SARE (Sustainable Agriculture Research & Education), "Crop Rotation on Organic Farms"
  2. Cornell University Cooperative Extension, "Crop Rotation in Vegetable Gardens"
  3. Rodale Institute, "Principles of Organic Crop Rotation"
  4. University of Minnesota Extension, "Cover Crops for Home Gardens"